I just had lunch with a colleague in the mission here. She has a cold. She is exhausted. When I asked her about her social life, she said, "I do not have a social life. None. After working 12-14 hours a day, seven days a week, I dont have the energy to try."
This mission represents, so far, based on my sample size of two, my worst fears about USAID. The mission here is managing 150 million dollars a year, plus 50 million a year for earthquake reconstruction on a staff of less than 20 people--about $10 million dollars in program funds per person. This compares with our Jamaica progroam, 81 people managing $18 million, about 220,000 of program funds per person. Jamaica is grossly inefficient and Pakistan is dangerously understaffed.
The combination of pressures here, terrorist threats, restricted mobility, constantly being stared at and a gargantuan work load undo some people. My colleague is undone.
Is it possible to work a 45 hour work week here? Is it possible to build community? Pakistan is not Islamabad, she said. Lets hope not, but is it possible to get out. Is it worth studying Urdu for 7 months to come here for a year? Should I jump ship now or stay for 2 years. Can I find ways to nourish myself in a male dominant, high threat culture, with a relentless work load? Do I want to try?
More later.
Had tea with a second colleague. First, I have to point out how counter intuitive it is to have tea at the American Club (read not for Pakistanis), within an American gated embassy, within a guarded embassy enclave, in an isolated city that is "not Pakistan." So where am I?
She was very positive about life here. Does she feel like she is under house arrest? No. Not being able to walk around the city is restrictive, not being able to travel to our project sights in Baluchistan is annoying, and having to take an travel in an armored vehicle and take an armed guard to see a poor micro borrower in Karachi is maddening. But the life is good. There are plenty of international people in Islamabad to be friends with outside of USAID. And her week is filled with yoga, horseback riding, acupuncture, and bike rides in the mountains. As she said, "if you are an outdoors person there is no reason not to be happy here."
Her hot tips include: Spend the first week meeting your partners, take the FSNs out for tea, and don't let the office be your whole world.
PS She works a five day work week.